WINDMILLS AND WATERMILLS
OF THE VENDEE
2. LES SABLES AND LA
ROCHE-SUR-YON AREA
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L'AUBONNIERE |
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Moulin de Rambourg; picture from Nesmy web site (see right) |
An amazing place for a riverside walk, alongside the turbulent waters of the river Yon as it begins its rapid descent towards Luçon and the plain. Just south of Chaillé-sous-les-Ormeaux follow signs to a gite d'étape (walkers' hostel). A small museum, open at weekends, tells you about the 20-odd small watermills that used to make use of the rushing current; if you can make your way far enough downstream (the path is distinctly precarious in places!) where the water swirls around boulders and alder trees, you may catch a glimpse of some of them slumbering under the vegetation, and even of the picturesque Moulin de Rambourg. An interesting website about the attractive village of Nesmy gives more details about this delightful spot. |
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The swirling waters of the Yon at l'Aubonnière. |
Another quaint aspect of the area is a guinguette, or open-air bar,
where on weekend afternoons in summer you can sip your drink to the sounds of
live accordion music (the accordionist likes to be challenged to dredge
half-forgotten music-hall songs from his vast repertoire!) and the gurgling
of the river Yon far beneath. And in the evening there is dancing under the
stars. |
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LE POIRÉ SUR VIE |
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Moulin à Elise
watermill. Photograph
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Inland, north of Aizenay, at the picturesque little town of Le Poiré-sur-Vie, you'll find the MOULIN À ELISE. Its informative web page (also in excellent English) tells the story of this pretty watermill dating from 1867, restored in 1991, which in summer doubles as Le Poiré's tourist office. A series of leaflets produced by the Association du Moulin à Elise, available at the mill, gives fascinating detail not only about this particular building, but about the origins of milling in general, and recounting how 50 wind-and water-mills used to grind flour throughout just this one commune. Some 40 years after the mill was built, a steam engine, later replaced by gas power, was installed to keep the wheel turning in summer when the river Ruth failed to provide sufficient water. The Moulin à Elise ceased commercial activity in 1954. |
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A guided tour ensures you understand every aspect of the mill's operation,
with models and diagrams to explain some of the finer points. One of the present
millers creates weather-vanes in his spare time (one of his creations adorns
the roof of the mill). If arriving from the south, you'll easily spot the
huge millpond on the left - turn down here (it's a tight turn, don't go into
the water!). |
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Footpaths near Le Poiré-sur-Vie. |
Some interesting footpaths radiate from Le Poiré, and the Moulin à Elise site hosts some popular local events such as the Foire à la Mogette, on 14 August each year (the mogette, or white haricot bean, is a staple part of the Vendée diet), and the Fete du Blé Noir (buckwheat festival) in the autumn, as well as an annual summer open-air film screening. There's also a good little restaurant/ crêperie. |
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