ANGELA BIRD'S

 

The
Vendée 

 

 

WHERE TO EAT IN THE PAYS DE RETZ

 

6. NANTES, ST-NAZAIRE AND LOIRE-ATLANTIQUE

La Baule, Bourgneuf-en-Retz, La Grande-Brière, Guérande, Haute-Goulaine, Machecoul, Moutiers-en-Retz, Nantes, Le Pallet, Passay, Le Pellerin, Pornic, Préfailles, St-Brevin-les-Pins, St-Lumine-de-Coutais, St-Marc-sur-Mer, St-Nazaire, St-Philbert-de-Grand-Lieu, Touvois, Vertou.

 Key
Blue text = restaurant with view over water (sea, lake or river)
Red text = hyperlinks to relevant web pages

 



Photo: Angela Bird

 

COUËRON
Le François II, 5 Place Aristide-Briand (uphill from church) (tel: 02 40 38 32 32)

Good food in the centre of this little town, just a short (free) ferry-hop across the Loire from Le Pellerin, 15km downstream from Nantes. Menus from 13€ (weekday lunch); evening 21€-50€ (2010). Closed Sun evg, Mon all day, Tues evg & Thurs evg.

 

 


 

NANTES
La Cigale, 4 Place Graslin (opposite the opera house) ; (tel: 02 51 84 94 94)
Beautiful brasserie, with Art Nouveau tiles that rival those of Harrod’s food halls. Very busy at lunchtime, but open for meals throughout the day, from breakfast via afternoon tea and through to a post-cinema nightcap. Open every day of the year, 7.30am till midnight.

 

 


Photo: Angela Bird

PASSAY
Restaurant des Pêcheurs, 11 Rue du Port de Passay, La Chevrolière (tel: 02 40 04 31 94).

JEAN-CLAUDE ROBERT WRITES:
Old-style restaurant de campagne - originally a fishermen's café - in a row of cottages near the edge of the mysterious Lac de Grand-Lieu. Specialities are, of course, the produce of the lake itself (frogs'-legs, eels and freshwater fish like zander), so it pays to have an adventurous palate. Average price for three-course meal of the day 20 euros (2009) depending how "piggy" you feel and how thirsty you are!. Lunchtimes only; reservation essential in summer.

 

Photo: Angela Bird

TRENTEMOULT
Le Poussin Rouge,  7 Quai Marcel Boissard (tel: 02 40 75 66 31)
If you can find this pretty waterside village near Nantes, on the south shore of the Loire just to the east of the tall Chéviré bridge, this is one of the eateries with a view over the river. Delicious mussels! Menus from 22€ (2009). Open 7 days a week, lunchtime and evening.

 

   © Angela Bird...and friends

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